“Fast food, slow food values” is the mantra declared on the walls of Burger Project in World Square, Sydney. The restaurant’s décor is similarly oppositional; exposed concrete, bare ceiling ducts and functional moulded tables are a stark contrast to the fine dining-esque bright open kitchen, unique pendant lights and beautiful sanded wooden benches.
The Burger Project is the brainchild of chef Neil Perry and his team from the famed Rockpool Group (whose portfolio includes Rockpool Est. 1989, Rockpool Bar and Grill, Spice Temple and Rosetta), and they have extended their love of quality and environmental consciousness to the masses at this World Square outpost. The philosophy centres around the meat (as surely all good burgers should) – the beef for both Rockpool and Burger Project comes from Tasmanian grass-fed stock. This is carved and ground in store at the Project, and indeed, you can see the bright red sides of beef being expertly prepared through the kitchen’s glass walls.
The first bite of every burger we try is a celebration of the hearty goodness of beef; however, it isn’t all about the meat. The beef-to-bread-to-condiment-to-salad ratio is perfect in each burger offering. The cheese and bacon burger is satisfyingly carnivorous, with the mild cheese and fresh veggies bringing the dish together. The bacon project burger is similarly substantial, with a great salty hit of bacon for the porcine connoisseur. We also try the two types of spiced chicken wings, either rolled in Szechuan chilli pepper for a fresh crunchy bite, or as a spicy punch with hot sauce. Another highlight is the American-diner-style milkshakes. We try the vanilla, which is smoothly sweet with dark flecks of vanilla throughout, and the salted caramel, which delivers honeyed happiness in each sip.
The takeaway message from the Burger Project is that fast food really doesn’t have to bad for you, or for the environment. The restaurant even promotes its commitment to recycling waste and charitable fundraising on the tray matts. Good food, served fast and friendly – a very tasty combination.