Tag Archives: Anna Lisle

by | May 7, 2013

The Botanist puts Kirribilli back on the foodie map

The Lower North Shore is an unlikely location for a restaurant and bar of this calibre. As part of the Applejack Hospitality Group (who also own Bondi Hardware), The Botanist has put Kirribilli back on the foodie map.

The fitout is (refreshingly) not over-the-top

The fitout is (refreshingly) not over-the-top

Historic botanist Gerard Fothergill, who was said to have spent the declining years of his life at the Kirribilli Street site, is the restaurant’s namesake and the inspiration behind the venue’s design. Thus, it’s only fitting that guests perch at wooden tables amongst pot plants while spindly ferns hang from ceiling – it’s unique without being over-the-top (how refreshing). The drinks list also takes cues from its botanical theme with cocktails themed “Mexican garden” and “The Pacific Isles” while the menu delivers a global spin with everything from sliders and pizza to tacos and pork knuckle.

Salt and pepper squid

Salt and pepper squid

As the saying goes, when you have your finger in too many pies, you often can’t do them all well. The Botanist is the exception. Not only does it successfully function as a bar and a restaurant but it also manages to skip between Mexican, Italian, Asian and Modern Australian. Tacos, at 4 for $20, are not only value-for-money but are generously filled with marinated beef strips and onion relish. A vibrant bowl of Szechuan prawns would rival any Thai dish from the ever-popular Stir Crazy down the road while a classic, salt and pepper squid, is tender and lightly crisp.

The drinks list also takes cues from its botanical theme with cocktails themed “Mexican garden” and “The Pacific Isles”

The drinks list also takes cues from its botanical theme with cocktails themed “Mexican garden” and “The Pacific Isles”

The Botanist is exactly what the doctor ordered for the North Shore – upbeat music, great food and a buzzy atmosphere. In fact, this place may be even worth traipsing over the bridge.

Anna Lisle

Read more about The Botanist here

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by | April 24, 2013

Lox’ stocks soar

Sydney is in desperate need for a good New-York style deli so when news of Lox Stock and Barrel hit the foodie-press, I promptly texted a fellow bagel-lover: 140 Glenayr Avenue.

Lox and bagels are to New Yorkers what meat pies are to Aussies. They’re part of the national identity and with such a cult-like status comes high expectations. As a New Yorker- wannabee, I was delighted when Brown Sugar brother-and-sister-duo Neil and Lianne Gottheiner, expanded their operation and opened Lox, Stock and Barrel. The name, not only a tribute to the NYC delicacy, “lox”, known in Australia as smoked salmon, is also a cheeky take on Guy Ritchie’s award winning British crime film Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels.

The fitout is bare but chic

The fitout is bare but chic

The menu is a mix of standard Bondi café offerings (ancient grain porridge and pumpkin salad) together with Jewish classics (challah and homemade brisket pastrami on rye). A panzanella salad is nondescript however a roasted cauliflower and chickpea dish, served with almonds and a tahina dressing is a standout. There are four varieties of bagels that are boiled onsite every day which taste just like they do in NYC; moist, dense and perfect when topped with some cream cheese, capers and smoked lox.

Free range holmbrae chicken, root vegies, egg noodles - can be ordered as a main or side dish

Free range holmbrae chicken, root vegies, egg noodles – can be ordered as a main or side dish

Does Lox Stock and Barrel fill the New York deli gap? It certainly isn’t as cheap and it’s not exactly a grab-and-go kind of place. Instead it melds together a unique crowd of black comedy fans, lox-and-bagel aficionados and Bondi hipsters – and perhaps this odd sortie is something that fits more with our Aussie psyche.

Anna Lisle

Read more about Lox Stock and Barrel here 

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by | April 18, 2013

Dinner, with a side of art?

As soon as you enter The ArtHouse Hotel, you get the sense that there’s been a lot of history created within its walls. The building itself dates back to 1836 and was once home to The School of Arts. However, today’s ArtHouse is home to a stylish taproom, four bars and the elegant dining room aptly titled Dome.

Dome restaurant doubles as an exhibition area for hanging artworks by Sydney artists

Dome restaurant doubles as an exhibition area for hanging artworks by Sydney artists

High gilded ceilings, 19th century plasterwork and large arched windows set the stage for an elegant dining experience at Dome Restaurant. Guests can start with a drink in the lounge before taking a seat in the large dining area complete with white-clothed tables and polished wooden floors. The refined menu commands as much respect as the restaurant’s surroundings with dishes such as squid ink linguine, Chinese marinated quail and New Zealand salmon.

New Zealand king salmon served with butter beans, bacon and tomato passata

New Zealand king salmon served with butter beans, bacon and tomato passata

In keeping with the hotel’s artistic bent, Dome also doubles as an exhibition area for hanging artworks by Sydney artists. The ArtHouse also regularly features creative arts events such as life drawing, art exhibitions, burlesque, cabaret and DJ/club nights.
Please note: There is a dress code that rules out singlets, thongs, tracksuits, sneakers and hats.

 

Anna Lisle

Read more about The Dome here

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by | April 12, 2013

Irasshaimase to Ippudo

From New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Seoul and now little old Sydney – Ippudo is a Japanese ramen chain that’s taken the noodle-world by storm. As SMH food-critic Terry Durack has asked, what’s the hype about? It’s hard to deny, ramen certainly isn’t an elegant dish nor does it push the culinary boundaries in the same way as Heston Blumenthal but (and I’m sure many would agree) there’s something so utterly satisfying about a big, sloppy bowl of piping hot broth, tender pork and silky smooth noodles.

The Saikyo miso barramundi is served with a spicy wasabi sauce

The Saikyo miso barramundi is served with a spicy wasabi sauce

Shigemi Kawahara started Ippudo way back before many Ippudo fans were even born (i.e. 1985), in Japan’s ramen capital, Hakata. It was here that Kawahara developed his master recipe which includes a Tonkotsu broth and Hakata-style noodles. On the menu at Sydney’s gleaming Westfield outlet are three ramen options that feature either pork loin, pork belly or ground pork. Of course, you can select various toppings such as flavoured egg, shallots and black mushrooms.

Grilled lamb with miso sauce

Grilled lamb with miso sauce

Not in the mood for oodles of noodles? Entrée and a la carte options pay tribute to deep-fried goodness with dumplings, tempura camembert and fried chicken wings. On the lighter side, the avocado and tofu tartar arrives in an inedible leaf (?) cone, wedged into a bucket of ice and served with a sweet and creamy sesame sauce. What this dish lacks in aesthetics it certainly makes up for in flavour. The grilled Tasmanian salmon is a good option for those still acquiring a taste for Japanese while the Saikyo miso barramundi fillet is both fishy and smoky but served with a kick-starter wasabi sauce that brings the dish together.

If you’re meeting friends, you have to wait until all your party has arrived before getting a table but perch at the bar, enjoy a sake cocktail and avoid going at ramen peak-hour (7-9pm). Oh and if you prefer an inconspicuous entrance, then be prepared to be pushed outside of your comfort zone when you walk in Ippudo’s doors. “Irasshaimase!”

Anna Lisle

Read more about Ippudo here

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by | April 9, 2013

A taste of the high life – One Moncur

Niche bars are all the rage at the moment – we’ve got bars dedicated to absinthe, boutique beer labels, wine, tequila – but unlike our European sisters, Sydney seems to be behind the eight-ball when it comes to champagne bars. That was, however, until One Moncur swung open its doors.

The wine list offers over 30 champagnes by the bottle

The wine list offers over 30 champagnes by the bottle

Fittingly, One Moncur is located in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs, Woollahra. Brothers Luke and Jeremy Browne together with business partner Anthony Rosen have glamorously refurbished the historic Phoenix Hotel to create One Moncur. Gone are the pokie machines and scruffy bar top, instead, One Moncur is a picture of glamour and sophistication. Designer Henrietta Reed has created what she describes as “French provincial meets a modern edge”  however One Moncur isn’t all sleek and stuffy. A deco-inspired feature wall and canary yellow velvet lounges inject character into the otherwise suave fit out.

 

The feature wall tasting table

The feature wall tasting table

The wine list offers over 30 champagnes by the bottle, including classic Grande Marques (Champagne houses) and an impressive list of Grower Made Champagnes. Beyond bubbles, there are also boutique Australian, Italian, French and New Zealand sparkling and still wines, plus a range of local and imported craft beer.

Anna Lisle

Read more about One Moncur here

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by | March 18, 2013

The “new” Neild Avenue

It’s a mammoth task to reinvent a restaurant, anyone will tell you that, but things get even trickier with a restaurant that’s in the public eye like Neild Avenue. Since it first opened, Neild Avenue has been accused of being too dark, too noisy and too expensive. So after spending three million dollars on its initial design, what has owner Robert Marchetti done about the public response? He’s changed the interior, shaken up the menu and abandoned the no-bookings policy.

Start with drink in the suave bar area

Start with drink in the suave bar area

The “new” Neild Avenue is a happier, brighter place, thanks to the adept touch of Dinosaur Designs artist Stephen Ormandy. I’m sure you’ll be relieved to know, Anthony Lister’s blurred superhero animalia remain on the front timber-framed ‘house’. Ormandy has painted a second ‘house’, which has been carefully decorated with the mod 60s shapes and bold colours synonymous with the Dinosaur Designs brand.

A long, elegant bar splits the restaurant space in two, with a suave lounge area to one side and the restaurant’s dining area to the other. A mini charcuterie counter sits at the entrance, where cured meats hang behind glass cabinets; visual reminders of Marchetti’s Italian background.

The new look is courtesy of Dinosaur Designs artist Stephen Ormandy

The new look is courtesy of Dinosaur Designs artist Stephen Ormandy

We start with a drink in the bar area. This is the perfect way to take in the unique space; perched on a soft leather lounge, dimpled beer mugs full of cold Birra Moretti in-hand. Efficient waiters, dressed completely in white, flit around the room. The bar menu puts a Mediterranean slant on your standard booze food – souvlaki mini slider buns, flashed fried calamari and sliced-to-order cured meats are substantial enough to call dinner.

The hip staff uniforms

The hip staff uniforms

The revamped restaurant menu has taken hints from sister restaurant, North Bondi Italian. There’s the “cartoccio style” crab spaghetti, baked in a bag with tomato sauce, and those light-as-a-feather arancini balls. North Bondi Italian Food may be one of my favourite restaurants, but tonight we’re here for Mediterranean food. Central to the menu is Marchetti’s stance on sustainability and simplicity. The calamari is line-caught, the lamb is milk fed, the chicken is organic and the meat is free-range. Seafood dominates much of the menu, with a range of whole fish main courses, served with bold salads such as frisee, mint, radicchio and zucchini. The coal grill takes the spotlight with various cuts of beef on offer, while the spit roast takes care of the souvlaki. Each dish is generously portioned, perfect for sharing.

Anna Lisle

Read more about Neild Avenue here 

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by | March 8, 2013

For fried crickets, cactus plants and the Virgin Mary – head to El Topo

Bondi Junction’s El Topo is riding the taco revolution, which shows no signs of slowing. This isn’t your standard quesadilla joint, however. The unusual location, on the rooftop of The Eastern hotel, amongst the retail high rises of Bondi Junction’s Westfield complex, may be a deterrent for some but those put off probably aren’t El Topo’s target market, anyway.

There’s an indoor restaurant, which offers a colourful array of booth seating, plus there’s an outdoor terrace and bar

There’s an indoor restaurant, which offers a colourful array of booth seating, plus there’s an outdoor terrace and bar

There’s an indoor restaurant, which offers a colourful array of booth seating, plus there’s an outdoor terrace and bar. Hand-painted Oaxaca tiles make a colourful tabletop and glass sculls, imported from Mexico, are scattered around the space.

Like the location, the menu is unexpected. Rather than offering Tex-Mex or California-style fare, El Topo prides itself on serving dishes that are authentically Mexican. For the brave, there’s fried crickets and unusual accompaniments like jicama fruit and cactus. The chipotle chile prawns are not for the feint hearted, either; they’ve got a rich and layered heat, and they’re served whole (head, tail and shell). Just like you’d get in Mexico.

Soft shell tacos

“Taco de cerdo” – guallio chile pork, roast pineapple, lettuce and coriander

The tacos are soft-shell, not hard, and the mushroom quesadilla is filled with ingredients like Mexican truffle, salsa verde and queso oaxagueno (a white, semi hard chese from Mexico). It’s not overloaded with cheap fillers and it doesn’t ooze cheesy oil when you pick it up.

Homemade mango, strawberry and coconut paddlepops

Homemade mango, strawberry and coconut paddlepops

The mandate for authenticity comes from head Chef Matthew Fitzgerald. While his resume doesn’t list a host of Mexican joints, he has earned his stripes at reputable establishments including Bathers’ Pavilion and Bentley Restaurant and Bar in Sydney, and Oxo Tower and Fig Bistro in London.

El Topo is constantly buzzing with a cool Hispanic vibe, but on Thursday nights the volume is amplified; they’ve got the dinner and the party combination down pat. If only every night was late night shopping.

Anna Lisle

Read more about El Topo here

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by | March 5, 2013

Sshhhhh… T.H.E. is one of Bondi’s best kept secrets

From Sarah Hendriks and Michael Benson (of Porch and Parlour) and head chef Sam Smith (ex L’Etoile), this treasure-box-of-a-restaurant is constantly swarmed with appreciative locals.

The rustically-refined space is where you want to linger. Glass jars of fresh flowers sit on every table and vintage light fixtures hang from the restaurant’s ceiling. Menus come printed on mini clipboards, exposed ducts run along the ceiling and the wooden floor is unpolished.  It’s cool and fashion-conscious, without doing it in that ‘alienating-anyone-over-30’ kind of way.

The breakfast grazing board

The breakfast grazing board

Behold, there are no panoramic views of Bondi Beach (unless you consider street-side glimpses) and before you turn up your nose, take note; this also means there aren’t hordes of tourists. Instead, the restaurant is filled with groups of friends meeting for a late brunch and couples willing-away the afternoon with a few glasses of wine.

King george whiting, fried eggs, beurre blanc and fresh lemon

King george whiting, fried eggs, beurre blanc and fresh lemon

The restaurant prides itself on sourcing local produce. Kate and Craig, from Old Man’s Gully Farm in Scone provide the restaurant’s organic meat, and their seafood is sourced from Chef Sam Smith’s dad in Port Lincoln. In the kitchen, the dishes are fussed over but not in a fine-dining fashion. The breakfast grazing board, served all day on weekends, is a generous feast for all the senses. Perfectly poached eggs, marinated feta, tomato and basil salsa and smoked salmon come with preserves and toast, perfect for dunking and dipping. A bowl of grilled whole prawns (yes, that’s head and shell) are served with a punchy harissa and the pork belly sandwich with an apple ‘slaw is serious hangover food. For drinking food, the locals come here for duck fat potatoes served with aiola, salted roasted almonds and pickled prawns served in a pretty glass jar.

Now open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week, every suburb needs a version of The Hill. 

Anna Lisle

Read more about The Hill Eatery here

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by | February 28, 2013

It’s the Côte d’Azur of Australia, Watsons Bay Beach Club

Tourist hotspots don’t generally appeal to locals. It’s something about those piercing American accents, bum bags and over-sized, under-used professional cameras. However, the recently renovated Watsons Bay Beach Club, may well be an exception to your anti-tourist radar.

The view from Watsons Bay Beach Club

The view from Watsons Bay Beach Club

Formerly the Watsons Bay Hotel, this new “beach club” takes you to a white-washed seaside oasis. It’s like the Côte d’Azur of Australia, except without the chic French accents. The “club” in the title refers to the multi-purpose use of the venue; there’s dine in or takeaway, a BBQ area, the “Miss Watsons” bar, table tennis, a bottle shop and accommodation plus various function spaces. You can rattle on about the colourful umbrellas and the staff’s Bassike blue-and-white striped uniforms but the main attraction here is the cracking view of Sydney Harbour, the city skyline and the Bridge. If you don’t get that tingly “wow-I-live-in-one-beautiful city’ feeling, then I suggest you hand in your Australian residency because it doesn’t get much better than this.

The nautical theme of the venue

The nautical theme of the venue

When you have views like this, you can’t expect the food to impress too, right? I bite my tongue as we sample Sydney rock oysters and a smoked Snowy River trout pate. Enjoyed with a chilled glass of Stony Peak sav blanc, the quality of the produce impresses. In the mains department, I’m not a tourist but it’s hard to go past the “famous” fish and chips. Sadly, the Coopers batter doesn’t have that light, crisp fluffiness but the chips give this dish a capital F for famous. From the “fresh and green” options, the char grilled chilli and lime octopus salad isn’t char grilled and the dressing could do with some work but it’s a kilojoule-friendly dish for the yummy mummies.

Chilli and lime octopus salad

Chilli and lime octopus salad

Leave your Jesus sandals and matching khaki outfit at home and throw your Polo knit over your shoulder, pull on your chinos and slip on your boat shoes because the Watsons Bay Beach Club is as good as Sydney gets to the French Riviera. If only Johnny Depp thought the same thing too.

Anna Lisle

Read more about the Watsons Bay Beach Club here.

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by | February 26, 2013

Hola, we’re off to meh-he-co!

Just when you thought good-ol’ Sydney town couldn’t take another taco… hola, Mejico! Swinging open its doors, right next to Jamie’s Italian on Pitt Street, Mejico has set itself apart from its fellow quesadilla-loving counterparts in various arenas.

Firstly, the name. It’s not pronounced Mexico, it’s “meh-he-co” – the way you say it in North America. I’m usually not one for silly restaurant names but just saying “meh-he-co” gets me all excited. I almost want to break into a Mexican hat dance and twirl my brightly coloured skirt. Almost.

It's a far cry from your usual Mexican restaurant

It’s a far cry from your usual Mexican restaurant

Secondly, the fitout. You may want to leave your feathered headdress at home because Mejico is no ordinary cantina. Owner Dr Sam Prince, of Zambrero Fresh Mex Grill, has spent over $4 million on a design that features fluro pink stools, leather lounges, an open bar and bold hand-painted striped walls. This vibrant aesthetic, together with a team of staff that strut around in fluro pink-and-white striped t-shirts mean that energy levels at Mejico are high.

 

Hiramasa kingfish ceviche with watermelon, radish and pepita on house-baked tostadas

Hiramasa kingfish ceviche with watermelon, radish and pepita on house-baked tostadas

Thirdly, Mejico does not serve Mexican street food. Chef Daniel Schai (imported from Singapore) has created an upmarket menu with dishes such as Achiote chicken and 24 hour smoked pork belly tacos. But the key component in all dishes is freshness. And this isn’t the standard claim-to-fresh-produce statement. It’s; “You want guac to start?”. Smack, bang – the wait staff mash it up right in front of you. “Need a corn fix?” Out comes the grill. Plantain chips are made by hand and the tostadas are baked in-house.

Chargrilled Black Angus sirloin with quinoa, black bean, pumpkin and green chimichurri

Chargrilled Black Angus sirloin with quinoa, black bean, pumpkin and green chimichurri

And lastly, there’s more than margaritas on the drinks list. In fact, Mejico has the longest tequila list in Sydney. If you don’t want to eat, guests can perch themselves at the open bar and enjoy a cocktail or two.

Restaurants love to make a claim but most are just that; statements that aren’t followed though. At Mejico, they practise what they preach.

Anna Lisle

Read more about Mejico here

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